Tuesday, October 25, 2016

Dress Resize - Add a Corset Back

When I was making my Faerie Halloween costume I found a great dress at the Goodwill but had a minor problem in that I was a bit to round and  incredibly too busty for the size of the dress.  I pulled the dress resizing portion of the post out to make it easier to find.

I decided to just take the zipper out and put a corset back in instead.  I found an amazing tutorial at "Sew for Dough" that I didn't really have the skill to make happen so I just took the inspiration for how and went from there as usual.

Step 1 was to remove the zipper from the dress with a seam ripper. I also removed the silly tie on the front.

Step 2 was to attempt to turn the tie into loops following the directions of the competent seamstress.

Step 3 was to acknowledge that I totally messed that up and just use ribbon instead

Step 4 was to attach the loops to the dress.  Working in the zipper seam I pinned a piece of ribbon and looped it back in about a fingers width across from the first piece I pinned it in place on a slight diagonal and then added the next piece ensuring that the ends of the loops overlapped.  Continue down the length of the opening.  Begin making loops on the other side of the seem making sure that they match up as evenly as possible with the loops on the other side. 
Step 5 I cut the bottom most layer of the skirt with the tulle edge out as close to the bodice as possible.  Then cut a piece of material out of it to use for the modesty panel.

Step 6 Hem the top edge of the panel that will be visible.  Then pin the panel to one side of the dress.  If the top line of loops doesn't quite match with the top of the panel just hide it with a piece of ribbon sewed over the top. Sew in using a line of tiny straight stitches.  At this point you need an assistant.

Step 7 Put the dress on and have the assistant tuck the panel in and the pin a few pins in a line where the panel and the dress are going to match up.  You want to attach it a tiny bit smaller than where it lays so that it doesn't bunch up too much in between the stays but also leave enough space to get in and out of the dress.

Step 8 Pin the other side of the modesty panel in and sew closed as you get towards the waist you should have the pins going in a triangle shape to taper the size. 

Step 9 lace it up.  I wanted to use the corset style lace where you have one string starting at the top and one at the bottom that meet in the middle and tie.  To measure loosely lace a piece of ribbon up leaving plenty of room to leave the stays unlaced while putting the dress on then add like a foot and a half and cut. 

Now you can fit in your dress!

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